Review: Balkan House brings döner kebabs, Bosnian cuisine to Hamtramck
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The house's once festive atmosphere, with hot cocoa being served and packed crowds lining up to take selfies in front, was replaced with people picking through the physical embodiments of their holiday memories. That's when Balkan House quietly opened in the former Palma space, but the dish that seems to be getting people talking the most isn't totally Bosnian — it's the döner kebab. The sandwich is Turkish in origin, but is wildly popular in northern European nations.
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Balkan House offers a Sunday buffet for great value. Eating brunch on Mother’s Day may be traditional, but it’s not the only fun way to hang out with Mom. We’ve built five Mother’s Day itineraries, designed around enjoyable activities — such as looking at colorful azaleas, browsing a bustling market or taking a stroll along the Potomac — and paired each with a trio of nearby restaurants. We’ve also included kid-friendly restaurants for multigenerational outings. And yes, as of press time, all had reservations available on May 12. However, a friend asked about assembling a vegetarian version of the döner kebab, and Ekic said she could.
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It helps that Ekic and her family bake the bread fresh each morning in Balkan House's kitchen, and lepinja is puffier, lighter, and softer than most pita — it might be the world's most underrated bread. Ekic stuffs the pocket with salty, somewhat greasy, and thinly cut kebab meat that's the pre-cut gyro variety, not sliced from a spit. The lamb and beef is counterbalanced with fresh slices of crunchy cucumber, white onion, red cabbage, shredded lettuce, and tomato slices.
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I got a ton of ketchup packets with the fries but didn't need any of them because the fries were that good. The doner itself is just like I remember eating in Germany. The bread is soft, the meat was well seasoned and the sauce was delicious. I'll have to order it with extra veggies next time because I like cucumbers and tomatoes on that kind of sandwich. The cevapi comes as its own plate, with eight or so logs between halved lepinja, dollops of ajvar (mild-but-flavorful red pepper spread), and kajmak and slices of raw white onion and tomato. You can also get it as part of the mixed meat platter, which was big enough for a hungry friend and me.
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Balian ice cream was a part of people's childhoods, selling their deliciousness to local schools and grocers -- and that ice cream money helped support Altadena's Balian House and its spectacular annual Christmas displays. Beyond cevapi, Bosnians are perhaps best known for burek, a stuffed pastry, and Balkan House sometimes has that or sirnica, which is burek with ricotta cheese inside a tube of golden, light, flaky dough. In recent years, it's been difficult to find in metro Detroit plates full of kajmak, lepinja, and pljeskavica. Hamtramck's Palma closed down years ago, and though there's still some cevapi and burek to be found in town, there's been a general dearth of Bosnian and Balkan cuisine — until a few months ago. Eastern Market comes alive with places to eat on the weekends, though some breakfast spots, like the storied Market Lunch and hot newcomer I Egg You, don’t take reservations. Roll the dice if you wish, but these three have guaranteed tables.
It also holds long, skinny, garlicky sujuk kic sausages, a shorter, fatter veal kielbasa (krajnska), grilled chicken breasts, and a bunch of cevapi logs. That's accompanied by mini patties of pljeskavica, or burgers, as well as raw onion and tomato slices. A favourite with the local Eastern European émigrés, Balkan House serves up the best of Southeastern Mediterranean cooking in huge portions. The room is reminiscent of a European hunting lodge, and the staff is always helpful and courteous. For a sampling of Balkan specialties, try the Balkan platter for one, which is generous enough to serve two people, as are most of the entrees. Popular items include fresh sausage and a variety of grilled meats and kebabs.
But Ekic says the sauce is really what makes or breaks a döner. She revealed her sauce's components, but kindly requested that we not share it here. It can be said, however, that it's a very garlicky Greek yogurt-based condiment. Balkan House ladles it on thick, hits it with a dusting of sour sumac, and sends out of the kitchen a döner so packed that its contents nearly bust out of the lepinja. Balkan House's döner lives up to the hype, and it's the only döner game in town. The next closest one is made at a Bosnian restaurant in Grand Rapids, Ekic says.
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